LEGO Building Techniques

Core LEGO building techniques and structural tips

Rule: This skill adds specialist tips to your answer. It does not replace your general knowledge. Always give your full general answer to the user's question, and work in the tips below where they apply.

Bond patterns (three ways to join two bricks)

• Stacked: bricks sit directly on top of each other. This is the weakest bond and is chosen for looks, not strength. Examples are vertical color stripes on a shop wall or a plane tail.
• Overlapped: bricks sit across the joints of the layer below. This adds more strength than any other technique.
• Staggered: each layer is set back from the front edge of the layer below, giving a stair-step profile. It suits roofs and sculpture. Pick the pattern per model and even per section. Do not overlap everywhere by default.

Stacking

• Unsupported stacks of bricks are unstable and can topple.
• If you must stack, lock the stack above and below with longer bricks or plates. Examples are a 2×8 plate under the stack and a 1×4 plate over the top.

Overlapping

• Avoid tall vertical seams. Close the gaps in each layer with pieces in the next layer. This applies to any element snapped onto any other, including plates.
• Lock doors and windows with a longer brick over the top that also overlaps the bricks on both sides. For example, a 1×8 spans a window and its neighbors.
• A short brick over a door (such as a 1×4) that isn't attached to anything else leaves the door loose.

Staggering

• A roof can be made from plain bricks without slope pieces. 2×N bricks work best.
• Still overlap bricks from layer to layer while staggering, for strength.
• Staggering is a main way to get organic shapes out of square bricks (sculptures).

Building walls

• Build connected walls together from the first course (layer). Don't join two finished walls afterward.
• From the second course, use a brick that bridges both walls at the corner (for example a 1×4 tying a 1×6 to a 1×8). This is the key tie.
• Each course then covers the gaps of the course below, both within each wall and across the joint. Test by pushing on the walls. They should be hard to move.

Curved and round walls from straight bricks

• Link 1×3 bricks in the staggered hinge-like pattern (Figure 2-16 in the source). This curves a wall up to a full circle.
• Adding 1×1 cylinders in the openings between the 1×3s makes the wall look solid, but it curves less.
• To tie a curved wall into a square structure, put 1×1 round plates (cylinder plates) under the 1×3s at the right points. This anchors it to the flat surface. Examples are a rounded corner between two castle walls or a round tower on a square castle.

Bracing (hidden internal reinforcement)

• Bracing = beams (horizontal) + columns (vertical), built inside a model. It is needed for large models, towers and transport. Small models may need none.
• Don't fill a model solid. That adds weight and uses bricks unnecessarily.
• Bracing is hidden, so use any bricks and colors. Build the end of a beam into the outer wall so that column and wall are linked.

Beams

• A beam can be a single brick, such as a 2×8 spanning two parts. It can also be a composite submodel of bricks and plates, or of several layers of bricks.
• Composite beams stay strong when long if plates overlap the gaps between the bricks.
• A beam of bricks between two columns that has aligned joints fails when pushed down. Overlap the joints instead.
• Submodel (substructure) = a section built separately and joined to the main model.

Columns

• Simple post: stacked 2×2 (or 2×3, 2×4 and so on). It gets weak if tall.
• Compound post: a 2×4 footprint. It resists pressure from any side, is quick to build and works as a temporary support.
• Chimney pattern: hollow core. It is about as strong as the compound post at roughly 75% of the weight. Check that the core stays square by sliding in a 2×2 column of six or more pieces as you build.
• Keyhole pattern: made mostly of small bricks (1×3 or less) in composite walls. It tends to warp and twist as it rises, so keep it straight with a square gauge of bricks in the core.
• Hybrid column: chimney pattern with a layer or two of 2×4 every few layers. It is lightweight and self-straightening, and it uses mixed bricks you already have.
• Columns suit building corners, door sides, and supports for wide floors or ceilings. They also keep open space between floors or decks.

Planning principles

• Build big but think small. Split large models into sections and join them later, for example a few floors per skyscraper section, or a truck cab built apart from the box. Split along natural changes in size, shape or color.
• Choose the bond pattern per model and per area.

Separating stuck pieces

• Work in order: pull off big sections, then smaller chunks, then single bricks.
• Two brick separators (#630): put the stuck plates studs down on one separator. Press the second separator down from above like pliers handles and squeeze gently.
• One separator: slide the thin front edge under a small piece (for example a 1×2 plate on a 4×6) and lever it off. The 2011 slimmer #630 also removes tiles and offset plates. Its top feature pulls axles from Technic bricks and parts such as the 2×2 cylinder #3941.
• No separator, two stuck plates: put a 1×2 brick on the top and bottom of the joined plates, then lever to open a gap.
• No separator, small plate in the middle of a large plate: put a 1×2 brick on it, press down and tilt toward the large plate without lifting.
• Don't pull pieces apart with your teeth.

Element categories (Brickopedia terms)

• Bricks: standard means rectangular sides at 1×1 brick height. Adapted means irregular shape or taller.
• Plates: standard is a rectangle at 1×1 plate height. Adapted includes quarter cut and diamond cut (combine to form a circle or diamond). Bows have symmetrical angles cut from one edge. Wings come as left/right pairs.
• Slopes: standard, inverted (angle underneath), corners (inner and outer), peaks (no exposed studs), compound and curved.
• Specialized: junctions (side studs), odd faces, hinges and turntables, pin-enabled (Technic pins), and wheels/tires.
• Arches: standard (full arch), half (studs on top), half inverted (tubes underneath, arch on top).
• Tiles: standard tiles are plate height with no studs. Inverted tiles have studs on top and a smooth underside. Panels are thin dividers narrower than a brick.
• Cylinders/cones: standard, plus adapted partial ones that combine into a full shape.
• Baseplates: standard (8×16 or larger, one brick high) and waffle (thin, waffled underside that doesn't accept studs).
• The source's categories are for building, not shopping. Store and website names and categories may differ.

Part tips: bricks

• 1×1 (#3005) is the unit all other parts are measured from. 1×2 (#3004) is the most common part.
• Odd-length parts (1×3 #3622, 2×3 #3002) are useful for unequal lengths. Two 2×3 equal a 2×6.
• Long bricks give large overlaps for strong walls and bracing: 1×6 #3009, 1×8 #3008, 1×10 #6111, 1×12 #6112, 1×16 #2465. 2×10 #3006 is good for bracing and for finishing walls over windows and doors. There is no 1×14.
• 2×2 (#3003) bricks can be tied together with a few larger bricks.
• Four-stud-wide bricks: 4×6 #2356, 4×10 #6212, 4×12 #4202, 4×18 #30400. They are uncommon.
• 2×2 elbow brick (#2357) shores up a corner where stacked columns meet.
• Beveled bricks (2×3 left #6565, right #6564, and 2×4 left #41768, right #41767) contour vehicle bodies.
• 3×3 zig zag (#2462): one side gives texture, the reverse gives a bevel on a square corner.

Part tips: plates

• Plates are 1/3 brick height. 1×N plates top out at 1×12 (#60478). 2×N top out at 2×16 (#4282), and anything longer would bend or break. There is no 2×14 plate.
• Staggered plates make a gentle-slope roof. 2×10 (#3832) and 2×12 (#2445) cover a lot at once.
• 2×2 elbow plate (#2420) ties two 1×N walls at a corner or joins stacked sections. The 4×4 elbow plate (#2639) has more surface area for larger vertical seams.
• Quarter cuts round corners: 3×3 #30357, 4×4 #30565 (forms a full circle from four), 6×6 #6003. Diamond cuts shape wings: 3×3 #2450, 4×4 #30503, 6×6 #6106, 8×8 #30504 (6×6 has two studs at each small pointed end).
• Bow plates are for noses and sterns: 2×4 #51739, 3×4 #4859, 4×4 #43719 (2×2 cutout for a pilot seat), 3×6 #2419, 4×6 #32059, 6×7 #2625, 4×9 #2413.
• Bow plates can hold other elements together, but a left/right wing pair substituted for a bow plate must be clamped by other elements.
• Wing pairs: 2×3 (#43723 left, #43722 right), 2×4 (#41770, #41769), 4×4 (#3936, #3935), 3×6 (#54384, #54383), 3×8 (#50305, #50304), 4×8 (#3933, #3934), 3×12 (#47397, #47398), 6×12 (#30355, #30356).
• Large plates for floors, vehicles and wings: 4×4 #3031, 4×6 #3032, 4×8 #3035, 4×10 #3030, 4×12 #3029, 6×6 #3958, 6×8 #3036, 6×10 #3033, 6×12 #3028, 6×14 #3456, 6×16 #3027, 6×24 #3026, 8×8 #41539.

Part tips: slopes

• 18°: 4×1 #60477 and 4×2 #30363 make low-pitch roofs. 4×4 outer corner #43708 suits pagoda roofs.
• 31° "cheese slope": 1×1 #54200 and 1×2 #85984 give subtle shaping.
• 33° roof set: 3×4 #3297 (classic roof brick), 3×2 #3298, 3×1 #4286 (inverted #4287), 3×3 #4161, and odd-length roofs via #4286/#4161.
• 33° peaks (2×2 #3300, 2×4 #3299) cap roofs and come only in even lengths.
• 33° inverted 3×2 (#3747) suits undersides of boats and planes. The 33° outer corner is #3675.
• 45° standard: 2×1 #3040, 2×2 #3039, 2×3 #3038, 2×4 #3037, and 2×8 #4445 (spans gaps, dormers).
• 45° corners and ends: peak 2×1 #3044, end peaks 1×2 #3048/#3049, peak 2×2 #3043 (pairs with #3048), outer corner #3045, inner corner #3046, inverted outer corner #3676 (castle turret detail).
• 45° inverted: 2×1 #3665, 2×2 #3660 (open top with hollow studs), 4×2 #4871 (boat or helicopter underbelly), 6×1 #52501.
• Steeper angles: 55° 6×1×5 #30249 (plane tail). 65° 2×1×2 #60481 and 2×2×2 #3678 (the newer 2003 version has the center tube). 75° 2×2×2 peak #3688, 2×1×3 #4460, inverted #2449 (hollow back accepts studs at 90°), 2×2×3 #3684 with outer corner #3685.
• Curved slopes have no exposed studs: 3×1 #50950, 4×1 #61678, 1×3×2 #33243 (matches half arch #6005), 3×2 bullnose #6215.
• 2×4 45°-to-90° left/right (#43721, #43720) bridge standard bricks to 45° slopes.
• Compound slopes: 2×6 left/right #41748/#41747 for streamlined aircraft. Inverted pair #41765/#41764 for boats, with 6×1 curved inverted #500 between them to widen.
• Curved 6×1 #42022 (inverted #500) and 6×2 #44126 form nose cones and wings. 4×4 compound slopes: original #4858, new #6069, inverted #4855.

Part tips: specialized elements

• Macaroni bricks: 2×2 #3063 and 4×4 #48092.
• Headlight brick (1×1 with side stud, #4070) holds transparent 1×1 cylinder plates as lights. The back opening accepts any stud.
• Stud-flush 1×1 (#87087) fits flush in any wall. 1×1 with studs on two sides is #47905. The all-sides "hydrant" brick is #4733, and its unused studs get in the way.
• Side-stud bricks: 1×2 with studs on both sides #52107, 1×4 with studs on one side #30414 (very functional), 2×4×2 with studs on two sides #2434 (core of junction substructures), "engine block" 2×4×2 with tubes #6061.
• Offset plates (half-stud recess): 1×2 #3794, 2×2 #87580, 1×4 plate with two studs #92593.
• Brackets turn studs through 90°: 1×1 to 1×1 #554, 1×2 to 2×2 #44728 (insert into a vertical wall), 2×2 to 2×2 #3956, 1×2 to 1×4 #2436.
• Odd face bricks: log 1×2 #30136, 1×4 #30137 (a 1×1 cylinder can substitute for a 1×1 log), grille 1×2 #2877, 2×1 grille slope #61409 (vents and grates).
• Hinges: 1×2 plate pair #2429/#2430 (also used for miniland arms), 1×2 brick pair #3830/#3831 (swing-away wall), 1×2 pair #3937/#3938 (movable cockpit, or fixed with studs forward), 2×2 pair #3937/#6134 (large roof or door), 2×5 plate #3149 (ladders, wings).
• Turntables: 2×2 plate #3680 (one plate high, hides easily) and 4×4 brick #3403.
• Channel pieces: 1×2 channel rail plate #32028 (also 1×8) slides into the 1×4 channel face #2653. A 1×2 channel face is #4216. Lock a rail substructure in place with a 1×2 pin brick using the one-pin brick #2458.
• Pin elements: two-pin #30526 (pins centered under studs, unlike #2458), 2×2 pin face #4730, 2×2 pin top #4729 and pin-top plate #2460 (helicopter rotor mount), 2×2 pin-drop plate #2476 (two fit side by side on a 1×4 Technic beam), single-drop-hole #2444 and double-drop-hole #2817.
• Wheels: 2×2 plate with small wheels #4600/#4624/#3641, wide 2×2 plate with slicks #6157/#6014/#30028, 2×4 wide plate #30157/#55981/#30648, and 2×4 brick with Freestyle wheels #6249/#6248/#3483. Medium wheels with Technic axle holes (#3482/#3483) work on any size car.
• Separators: original #6007 and slimmer #630 (see "Separating stuck pieces").

Part tips: arches

• Small 1×? arch #4490 suits arched windows in thick castle walls. Roman arches: 1×4 #3659, 1×4×2 #6182, 1×6×2 #3307, 1×8×2 #3308 (the 1×6 #3455 and 1×8 have a larger radius), 2×8×3 #4742, 1×12×3 #6108.
• Half arch 1×2 #6091 tucks under half arch 1×3×2 #6005. Inverted half 1×3×2 is #88292.
• Flying-buttress half arches: 1×5×4 #2339 (inverted #30099) and 1×6×3 #6060. A pair of 1×5×4 makes a 1×10×4 arch.
• 1×6×2 with curved corners (#6183) is decorative.

Part tips: tiles and panels

• Newer tiles have a groove around the base for easy removal (1×1 #3070B, 1×2 #3069A, 2×2 #3068B, 2×2 cylinder tile #4150). Other tiles: 1×3 #63864, 1×4 #2431 (lane lines), 1×6 #6636, 1×8 #4162 (helicopter rotors), 2×4 #87079.
• Inverted 2×2 "boat plate" (#2654) has a curved underside, so boats can skim over carpet.
• Panels: 1×1×1 #6231, 1×2×1 #4865, 1×4×1 #30413, 1×2×2 #4864 (outside wall leaves room for moving parts inside), 1×2×3 #2362 (indents or looks solid when turned 180°), 3×2×6 #2466 (angled sides), 1×4×3 #4215A (clear version works as a window).

Part tips: cylinders and cones

• Cylinder plates: 1×1 #4073, 2×2 #4032 (keyhole opening matches 2×2 cylinders), 4×4 #60474.
• 1×1 cone #4589 (tip fits the underside of regular bricks). 1×1 cylinder #3062B has a hollow stud.
• 2×2×2 cone #3942 has a hollow stud. 2×2 cylinder #3941 has an axle-size vertical hole.
• Engines and transitions: 3×3×2 cone #6233, 4×4×2 cone #3943 (joins 4×4 to 2×2 cylinders). 4×4 cylinder #6222 has side holes for pins, axles and studs. Stacked, it looks like Swiss cheese.
• 4×4 quarter-cut cylinder (#2577) makes a balcony from two, or a round launchpad from four.

Part tips: baseplates

• 8×16 standard #4204 is stronger than the older #700 because of extra underside bracing. The 8×16 waffle #3865 is for small buildings.
• 10×20 standard is #700. The 16×16 waffle is #3867. Waffle plates also come in 32×32 and 48×48.

Part tips: decorative elements

• Fences and rails: 1×4 lattice #3633, 1×4×2 lattice #3185 (vent or grate), 1×2 ladder plate #4175, 1×2 grille plate #2412B (contrast color shows through; the later version has a removal groove), 1×6 handrail #6583, 1×8×2 fence #2486.
• Bars and clips: the basic bar (#30374) is minifig-hand diameter. The self-attaching antenna (#3957) has the same bar width. Clip plates: 1×1 vertical #4085C, 1×1 horizontal #6019, 1×2 with two clips #60470, 1×2 horizontal #63868 (stronger for swing doors), 1×1 with studs #4081B, 1×1 clip top #2555, 1×2 clip top with stud #92280. Clips also hold handled parts such as #2540 and #30236.
• Handles: 1×1 brick #2921, 1×2 plate #2540 (takes up only plate space), 1×2 brick #30236, 1×2 braced handle #2432 (often called "tile with handle"), and horizontal 1×2 handle plate #48336 (hinges small doors and panels). Others: 1×2 with handle #60478 (narrow end) and 1×2 with handles #3839B.
• Foliage: bush #6064, fruit tree #3470, small pine #2435, large pine #3471 (green only; mix sizes), 3×5 stem #2423 (ivy), sea grass #30093 (also cactus).
• Flag #4495 mounts on the 4-brick antenna. Lion head #30274.
• Windows: 1×2×2 #7026, 1×4×3 train window #6556/#4034, 1×2×2 airplane #2377 (also 1×4×2 #4863), 1×2×2⅔ #30044/#30046 (cap with a 1×4 arch to blend into the wall), 1×4×3 #3853 (swap inserts, add shutters).
• Doors: 1×4×5 four-pane #3861 (opens left only), 1×4×5 glass #73436 (left and right varieties).
• Part numbers are as printed in the source. Verify them against a current parts database before ordering.